Thursday, October 25, 2007

As Seen in Mumbai... Signs for 36 Million Eyes Only

The British- or mis-spelling, the economy of words when three languages figure on a painted 1'x2' plank, the bright colors always tinged with smog: signs in Mumbai tend to have a very specific look. They remind me of the car of choice, the taxi (50,000 tool around the city), manufactured solely for India by Fiat, always dented and sauntering at 30 mph, always looking like they drove out of Florence in the '60s, always with a Ganesh in swirling neon lights abutting the windshield. Classic Indian signs remind me of these taxis because they are still produced according to the same specs to this day....
This could be a 2007 model, judging by the rustless finish and gougeless facade. (It's "whizzing" past three levels of housing -- the slums, which spring up literally in the middle of sidewalks at times, often have two floors and have corrugated tin roofs, the small apartment buildings, and the larger, unpainted buildings, which tend to be more modern).

This, to the right, is a Goods Carrier truck, the kind I took on my trip to Thane to watch the Gokulashtami festival. Most have English signage, but almost all are reddish-orange and have beautifully painted cabs and bumpers. You can barely make out the medallion at the top with a guiding god or goddess here. They also get dressed up for the holidays. Most cars were wearing orange flower garlands for Dussera, the final day of Navratna, which just ended this week. Although it's a Gujurati holiday, Navratna is very festive in Mumbai, because it celebrates Mahalaxmi, the goddess of wealth, near and dear to Mumbaikars' hearts. Kids play with three sticks, holding two and manipulating the third in between. We were just grateful that it wasn't another drumming holiday--not so good for studying!




Ganesh: First in Space. This is a particularly modern example of the innards of tents that sprung up around the city for Ganesh Chaturthi, a festival honoring the god with a lucky aura and an impish flair. Ganesh may have an elephant's head, but he travels around on a mouse, because a mouse can fit anywhere. I like that.



Every traveller to Mumbai may have a picture of the sign below (it's posted in a touristy area), but I'm happy to be no exception. The most questionable part of the claim to me isn't really about magic--what do I know about magic?--but that you could actually carry out any kind of transaction in Mumbai in "Two Minutes Only." I should have taken this guy up on the offer just for the nostalgia I have for efficiency in general.

My local train station, Matunga Central, features the below offer. This is a famously sexually conservative culture. I recently read an Times of India op-ed article by an indignant resident, railing against the flagrant kissing in Shivaji Park. However, due to governmental family planning messages, the country's a lot more open about the consequences of sex than the US is. But I'm still unclear as to how computarized an abortion can be, and would like to remain ignorant.
The buzzwords for intra-India discrimination are "caste system" but, unfortunately, the practice extends to religious strife and racial inequalities. We actually saw the regulated swimming times enforced in our hotel in Pushkar, which is only the tip of the iceberg in terms of tourist envy. The love-hate relationship with the British occupiers has translated into a worshipful attitude toward white people, and a general acceptance of ripping us off at every turn. Although there's less overt worship of the US than I've found in some other countries, possibly due to the fact that the Bollywood pantheon shines stronger than American stars do as a collective, there is an attitude of deference to individual foreigners that can be harmful at times. The Indian girls in our hostel say that only when we speak up are issues remedied, and we've all caught men taking cell-phone pictures of us on the sly. Skin-lightening is a national craze, so much so that when an African-American friend in the Temple group went to the store to buy Clorox, she was given skin bleach.

In terms of religious conflict, Mumbai erupted in Hindu/Muslim riots in the mid 90s, but things have calmed down considerably since. However, the "Hindustan" nationalist party, the BJP, which has strong ties to the Shiv Sena terrorists, remains a strong presence in Maharashtra, Mumbai's state. The BJP's orange is meant to symbolize Hinduism, whereas Islam is generally represented by green, with mosques are painted that color as well. My neighborhood is next to Dadar, where the BJP is headquartered, and walking down the street, I found this scrawl:
Although I can't be certain what the writer was invoking, I doubt that he or she was declaiming against environmentalism or Kermit.






Signage in general is a big deal in a country where combatting illiteracy is a governmental priority. We're all tempted to steal this sign, but then we'd run the risk of leaving crying toilets and poop-strewn tiles!












We've also observed that there's an unfulfilled niche in India: the western-style tourism consultancy firm. India loses buckets of money on awkward inefficiencies in museums, forts, and palaces, not to mention misunderstandings at hotels and restaurants. I'm not advocating a major change in cultural scope in general, just a basic reorientation in places specifically serving outsiders. There are also efforts undertaken which represent misplaced effort, or are generally mystifying. Read bench:
We came across the bench in Goa, which does cater to mostly European tourists. Some other signs found there included this dubious claim:Daniella's remained closed during our stay in Goa, possibly serving as another example of Man misunderstanding God's best efforts to enliven small parties.

For those "no fear" types who can't get close enough to tobacco, we found the following offer:












Returning to Mumbai, there's a self-proclaimed hospital which stands across the street from our hostel. As tribute to the long tradition of Huntingtons finding non-sequitur signage while traveling, such as the beauty parlor/township museum, I present the following:

You might think it's a little odd, but I have yet to see a monobrow or mole among the mostly over-80 population. Which really says something.










These "pure for sure" signs turn up at almost every gas station, illustrating differentiation strategies for commodity retailers, and making a base-level handy joke for the rest of us. But there's more. Rachel, in blue, has lived in Brazil, where the "OK" sign is a very foul gesture, regarding the condition of purity of one's antagonist's mother.









There are all sorts of directives in India, but not a ton of respect for the law. If flattery will get you anywhere in the US, here, it's money. They pay police so little that many are reduced to taking bribes to feed their families, which is reinforced by few repurcussions. But people here love laying down the law, even if follow-through is minimal. The sign below becomes a plaintive request in a city where trashcans are tiny and infrequent (and indoors, the size of toilet-bowl cleaner stands--what am I supposed to put in that, a gum wrapper?!).

One of my favorites is "Do Not Spit". People need to be constantly reminded of this one. I have come across these signs behind the counter of the tourist assistance window in the main train station as well as inside of a church.

We can conclude the tour with the most common sign in Mumbai. My classmates and I couldn't wait to figure out what "bean bags" were. We were sure they was illegal, or at least entertainment-related. The guerilla marketing covers the city's cement scape, with fairly little competition. Well, it turns out that bean bags are just that. Cheap seating destined to bust and create an ocean of foam balls in several months. Like Mumbai--a quick fix on the fly, straining under humans' weight, and not built to last. . .

Monday, October 1, 2007

Eau de Goa


Goa, the smallest state in India, was conquered by Vasco de Gama and is heavily Catholic today, but is mostly known as a beach resort for Bangaloreans, Mumbaikars, and British vacationers ranging in color from ivory to brick, depending on minutes in the sun. The pristine beaches lie to the south, where we (13 classmates, me and 3 Danish joiners) didn't get to really explore. We were in the tourist district, albeit during the off-season. The beach pictured, Baga beach, features shack restaurants made of palm fronds and tarp, serving up sandwiches with "lattis" and employees on the beach front enticing you with offers of "lounge chair," Kingfisher (the ubiquitous Indian beer), and, in one special establishment, "English toilet." We didn't go in the water because riptides are prevalent at the end of monsoon season, and because we walked by the sewage pipe on the way to eat.

We spent several hours over a few days exploring Panaji or Panjim, depending on whether you favor the Hindi or Portuguese rendition of the Goan capital. Since India has so many languages in the mix, there are often more than one way to spell and pronounce place names--for example, you can pronounce the Maharashtran city, Pune, either "POO-nay" or "POO-nuh" and I've caught people doing both in the same sentence. It makes things a little easier for those of us who don't instinctively know.

Panaji is a port city with a beautiful market and great places to eat. Goan cuisine is heavy on seafood, marrying Portuguese and Indian spices. We found a fantastic fish curry at a restaurant in town, a thinner thai red curry marinating a small pomfret with sides of okra and rice, which came to about 85 cents. I couldn't take a picture because I was basically distinguishing my classmates across the table by sound, unfortunately. As advertised, the place was partially air-conditioned (not our part) and they also saved some rupees on lighting fixtures by abstaining from buying them. Below are Colin, Ben and Rachel, and Forest who may be blind now from emerging without sunglasses.

Goan drinks are not as user-friendly as the food. We were told that notches on coconut palms are footholds for toddy-tappers climbing up to extract coconut sap which is turned into one of two varieties of feni, the other being cashew feni. When Rachel tried to order it, the waiter explained that it is ok if you mix it with "enough of anything," but only "if you don't mind the stink." After several reassurances that she would like to try it, followed by several gentle reminders about the smell, Rachel discovered why Goa exports salt to Dubai and cashews to the rest of India, but not a ton of feni.
We also managed to locate a few places to avoid on your next visit, including:


We hit the market several days later, on the hunt for tacky shell sculptures, nonsensical English t-shirts, and shoes that would fit only our hands. We were in luck. Although I didn't buy the "Tennis Party Girl" shirt, Rachel found a Ganesh icon made entirely out of shells and visible glue and Colin located a belt that said "The Tiger Club" and then listed Rolling Stones songs.
Indian markets are filled with people stringing marigolds and roses, which are bought to hang in temples and on altars in homes.

Many of the stalls were closing up and I'd seen a guy grabbing armloads of marigolds and dropping them into a bag to keep for the night. I asked him to repeat the action for a picture, but he misinterpreted what I'd wanted to see. . .
It seems like a comparatively cushy job in Goa, since in Mumbai, the flower market in my neighborhood features four workers per double-decker 7-foot hut, where flower stringers work and sleep (check under the tables).
Back in Panaji, the fish market was by far the most exciting, mostly because I haven't been down to the one in Mumbai yet. I'm not sure who fishes in Goa, but the selling seems to be in the hands of the women.



































Sometimes they make exceptions.